How to Identify Real 925 Sterling Silver Jewellery

If you've ever purchased a blingy silver ring or a delicate necklace, only to find it losing its shine within days or, worst of all, causing your skin to turn an unflattering green, you're not alone. With the popularity of sterling silver growing, especially online, it's harder and harder to know if you're buying the real deal or just getting fooled by something that's a cosmetic appearance replica for silver that won't survive very long. Industry estimates are that the majority of so-called "silver" jewelry available today is either silver-plated or base metal overall, just pretending with a metallic finish. 

The trace amount of metal is required because pure silver is extremely soft and malleable. Yes, that's a sweet thing to say, but not something you'd want for jewelry you're going to wear every day. Copper added to the mix gives 925 silver rings the strength it requires to keep its shape and resist abrasion, but also retain that ageless silver shine.

Just because an item is marked "925" doesn't always make it real sterling silver, however. Indeed, most counterfeit items are stamped with "925" simply to pretend to be real. That's why one must look beyond the stamp and identify the characteristics, the touch, and the telltale hints that speak the truth. Genuine sterling silver acts in some anticipatable manners, it tarnishes eventually, responds to certain substances, and holds in your hand in a certain way. Imitation silver, on the other hand, may at first appearance be appealing but subsequently prove to be a letdown, tending to exhibit brassy or greenish undertones or even react on the skin.

Then how do you know that your silver jewellery is authentic?

First, there is weight. Genuine sterling silver does weigh something. It's not actually heavy like gold, but it is heavy. If something weighs too little to be its size, there is a good pretty bet that it might be aluminum or another inexpensive alloy. When you hold it in your hand, sterling silver will feel weighted and heavy, not thin and hollow.

Second, observe the brilliance. Silver is metallic, but it isn't usually defined by that brassy, mirror shine most counterfeit silver items have. Real silver will be more inclined to pick up a richer, more subdued color. It's nearer an aristocratic tarnish than a glazy one. Over time, sterling silver will also pick up patina, that is, a pale darkish hue due to air and moisture reaction. While this annoys some, it is actually a mark of authenticity. And it can be fixed with a quick buff. False silver, however, does not tarnish whatsoever or corrodes very unevenly and unattractively, flaking off sometimes in clumps.

One good way to test for genuine sterling silver is to buff it with a soft white cloth. Give it a go and rub the jewelry back and forth in the cloth for a few seconds. If your cloth tears off with a bit of smudged grey or black, well done, that's probably real silver pendants reacting with oxygen. That old trick has been doing the rounds of jewelry traders and silver collectors for years. And if it won't rub off or is a greenish sort of thing, then you can be sure that it's either silver-plated or another type of imitation metal beneath.

And finally, magnets. Silver is not magnetic. So if you attempt to rub your jewelry with a magnet and it gets attracted to it, that is a big red flag right off the bat. It means that there's going to be some base metal such as iron or nickel in it. But keep in mind that some metals used to create imitation silver aren't magnetic either, so although the magnet test is useful, it's not infallible. But if the object reacts to a magnet, it's definitely not sterling silver.

Another subtle indicator is the smell. This is silly, but sterling silver really has no smell whatsoever. When your piece does have a coin or metallic odor, I am certain it has a great deal of nickel or other cheaper metals. The odor can be very apparent on hot, steamy days or when you have sweated while working. Real silver will not make you do this, it is odorless after several hours of use.

Let us also not forget about the hallmark or stamp. While most genuine sterling silver earrings do carry some markings: either "925," ".925," "Sterling," or "S925." These are usually stamped onto an inner band, clasp, or reverse of pendant backs. The problem is that some fake jewelry carries these too, so once again, you can't rely on this solely to confirm genuineness. But it is a good point to start from. Also, genuine hallmark stamps must be legible and inconspicuous, and not stamped too big or obtrusively. A hideously large "925" mark which appears slapped on is questionable.

You might have heard of the ice cube test. It's a good and simple test to check if your silver is genuine. Silver is a very good heat conductor. If you put an ice cube on a genuine sterling silver item, it will melt considerably quicker than if you put it on a plate of wood or ceramic. It's a neat little home science experiment to try, and although it's not 100% accurate, it's something to add to your checklist.

One simple but effective thing is to attempt to clean the item. If you happen to have a soft jewellery cleaner or a silver polish cloth in the house, then you can just use that to clean the item. Pure sterling silver is easily cleaned. It will brighten again and lighten noticeably. If the item starts to lose color, the surface flakes, or it displays some other color on the inside, then it's either silver-plated or simply fake. Some people even utilize toothpaste as a home-brew cleaner, it may work in a pinch but treat it softly because it may scratch softer pieces.

One thing you will also want to observe is your reaction. If you put a ring on one day and the skin on your finger turns green, that is a sign you need to watch. While some darkening due to silver is unavoidable due to tarnishing, green or blue discoloration is usually caused by copper or nickel leaching from metal. Sterling silver does have copper, but in no amounts large enough to cause such a thing. So if your skin's suddenly turning color, it might be a plated piece, not genuine sterling silver.

And then, of course, there's cost. We're as much of a sucker for a deal as the rest of them, but if the price looks too good to be true, chances are it's too good to be true. Real sterling silver isn't necessarily the most expensive precious metal to be found, but it isn't going to be had cheaply. If anyone's asking a few hundred rupees for some sort of block, clunky silver cuff without hesitation, you'll want to take a close look. Good quality sterling silver is paid for because of the value of the metal and the craftsmanship. Always consider where you’re buying from. Reputable sellers, trusted jewellers, and verified websites are much safer than a random street stall or an unknown online vendor offering massive discounts.

And then, also, how it reacts when it's touched is significant. Sterling silver will react to touch in a certain way. It's not abrasive, doesn't make your skin itch, and has some kind of "cool" sensation when you first put it on. Silver also comes to warmth along with your own body warmth, while fake metals sometimes feel odd to the touch and become sticky when you sweat.

Lastly, it is worth spending money on a silver test kit if you purchase jewellery from time to time. These usually have nitric acid or the equivalent that will react with real silver. Applied to a tiny scratch on the item, genuine sterling silver will turn creamy white whereas fake metal turns green or blue. While this method does do some damage to the item, it's worth it if you are buying something expensive or antique.

Finally, acquiring the technique of recognizing real sterling silver is a matter of observation, feel, smell, and a little bit of science. You are essentially your own jewelry detective. The more you handle real silver, the more you develop an awareness of it unconsciously. And after handling the quality, the weight, the smoothness, and the look of the real 925 sterling silver, those copies are evident.

Being an educated buyer spares you heartache and makes your jewellery not just stunning to look at but durable for years, even, perhaps, generations. Whether it's meant to be, a gift, a treat, an investment, a true sterling silver is always endowed with a certain kind of ageless quality that can never quite be replicated by its imitation.